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Curated by Mishcon de Reya LLP

“Our pieces are about tying the concept of micro architecture to each jewel; it’s about where the common fashion accessory becomes a real design object,” says Niccolo Marchiori, founder of Audere Lab.

LC: Tell us about your brand…

NM: The name says a lot for starters – it derives from the phrase memento audere semper, which translates as remember always to dare. We are a British accessories brand founded two years ago in London but about four years ago in Italy. Our labs are located in Vincenza (Italy) and our handcrafted jewellery is about elegance and integrity. It began when I worked closely with artisans to see if we could come up with something that was a balance between what the artisans were capable of and what the materials could extend to. We want the main thing about any outfit to be our jewellery (it can hang like a blouse) and everything else you’re wearing is collateral. Some people call this ‘architectural jewellery’.

LC: Tell us a bit about the different collections…

NM: The main idea of the jewellery is for every single jewel to represent something. This is especially so for our Limited line – every single photo on the website here has a different outfit to reflect each jewel’s individual character. In the other two collections, not every photo is different because they’re not quite as arresting, those pieces. One thing most people don’t know is that we do occasionally customise things for loyal customers who have a specific idea of what they want.

LC: How do you arrive at the idea for a new piece?

NM: For the Limited collection we start back to front. First with the material, asking what shape works for it, what kind of polish we might use. Then we’ll sketch ideas, and then we’ll work with the material and artisans at the end. At the moment we don’t do anything 3D for this collection but the texture collection is different because it’s not just about shape but also surface. For the DayXDay collection, we design the pieces in 3D and do samples, and after that we work with the artisan. (It’s the opposite process from the limited collection, basically.)

LC: Is there an emphasis on sustainability in your work?

NM: Yes, we use every single piece of the material that we buy. We waste nothing. For example, for the piece called ‘Hole’ (£330 in Limited collection), we use two small bits of bronze and put it under pressure to fuse them so we don’t have to cut out the middle. We also use the same production process that was used when bronze was first discovered (of course with some new techniques).

LC: What are your hopes and dreams for Audere Lab in the future?

NM: People see earrings, bracelet and necklace as simple objects – not as something that they really need to spend time and attention choosing. Sometimes I see people wearing an amazing outfit, but the accessories might clash. I suppose my dream is to change perceptions so that people can view the jewellery as what makes the outfit rather than just something they add at the end.

auderelab.com